Hwy 24 to Capitol Reef National Park goes through a very green valley dotted with cows, fruit orchards, ranches and the Fremont river. Yes, the rocks around are still red, but there is more contrast to it, and today's park has a twist of its own. Smaller than Canyonlands, and much less crowded, Capitol Reef is in the heart of mormon country, where mormon farms and ancient Indian petroglyphs still live side-by-side. The Fremont indians who inhabited these lands left only some rock incisions that hint to their life here. In the late 1880's the mormons settled in and today the area is known as the Fruita valley, with some old farms still in operation and fruit orchards with trees over 100 years old. The scenic drive inside the park is... scenic but most of the views are accessible only by unpaved roads. We decide to take a hike just inside the park's west exit, and the 2-hour round-trip takes us on top of the mesa where we enjoy a breathtaking view of the landscape around. There have been fresh cougar prints around, the ranger said... hmmmm....
We are going to sleep in Escalante tonight, about 50 miles from Bryce canyon. From the map, Hwy 12 is dotted as scenic all the way, we hit the cute village of Torrey, where the only restaurant worth a mention in my guide book is already closed for the season, and the grocery store does not carry any bread. So we press on. We arrive at the tiny hamlet of Boulder, whose main street is just about as long as our RV, and from there on Hwy 12 enters the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, whose highlight is the Escalante canyons. Why this area isn't a National Park is beyond my comprehension. It's drop-dead gorgeous, the road rims the canyons left and right and is just wide enough for two lanes, then it drops almost straight down. 10 miles of 8% grade downhill with twisty and narrow turns are enough to keep me on the edge of my seat. I am the passenger, and I AM the one on the edge of the abyss at every turn.
I must remember this and come back one day to bike it. It's worth every curse that may come out of my mouth while pedaling uphill. In the end, we never make it to Escalante, but we stop outside of town at the Calf Creek campground. The park host is the friendliest person we have ever met - he even offers to cut some wood for a campfire since it's a chilly night, and takes Petr on a tour of the campground. In the meantime, two Russian cyclists arrive at the camp, it's pitch black by now, and they have no lights. Must be a Russian custom. We learn that a 6-mile round trip hike would take us to the Calf Creek waterfall, and we make a mental note of it to come back some other time. We will need the entire day tomorrow to visit Bryce Canyon. With no bread, it's pasta again tonight for dinner.
Early morning traffic jam.
Welcome to Capitol Reef National Park!
A view from the road.
Indian petroglyphs.
Spikes of "red rock".
At the campground inside the park, a herd of deer was grazing unafraid of people around.
More red rock.
These spikes are called The Castle.
Petr saw army soldiers in the lower rock formations. I guess he really needs a break from it.
Panorama of the park on our hike.
Laura climbing - the road is in the distance.
Another view from above, not quite at the top yet.
On our way back down, this is a split into a canyon.
Panoramic view from a high point in the Dixie National Forest.
The Escalante canyon.
On this side, you can easily see that where the river used to flow, now there is a river of trees.
As the sun goes down.
Red clouds at sunset.